No Ocean for Young Women

A few people’s names have been changed or hidden to protect their privacy (and mine). The rest is all true.

Waves are merciless. This is the most important thing you will learn about the ocean, hopefully before you’re held down by one for what seems like an eternity, only to have a surfboard crash onto your head when you surface. For years I watched other (taller, stronger) people walk effortlessly through the waves to…